XXL HELL : MAYA ALMOST DROWNS
SCOTT”S BEST SONG EVER:
-Opening banter about emails received, feedback or comments about the last show, recent lack of swell, etc.
-Discussion about Scott
SCOTT: Surfing since 1978; surfed on the Torrey Pines High school surf team, and the UCSD surf team; worked in the DM lifeguard dept for about 5 years ; spent about 6 months in Australia, worked in a little restaurant called SWELLS in Terrigal, Central Coast; met Steve Hawk surfing in Mexico and offered me an internship job at SURFER where I worked in an editorial capacity from 1998 to 2008. Started the consumer surfboard show, Sacred Craft, in 2007, and have been running that ever since; I wrote a children’s book called Girl vs. Wave ; I wrote and co-produced a documentary film about surfers during the Vietnam War called Between The Lines. I’ve traveled & surfed in Hawaii, Tahiti, Australia, Indonesia, Micronesia, El Salvador, Costa Rica, Mexico, Morocco, Portugal, Spain, France. I’m on the Board of Directors at the Surfing Heritage & Culture Center. In 2013 I produced the California Gold Vintage Surf Auction. I’ve been hosting surf talk radio since 2005. You can search the iTunes podcast directory for “Down The Line” to listen to past shows.
-Must See Moment of the Week
Jon Stewart The Daily Show, he does a little bit about sexy Halloween costumes that is clever, check it out. Mundaka Footage floating around FaceBook is pretty mental.
Carlos Burle and the biggest wipe-out ever
Nazare the big wave deep-water offshore canyon wave came alive during a massive swell. A few brave souls tow-ed the spot including Carlos Burle and Maya Gabeira (who we will get to in a minute) ; Carlos rode a monster and many are claiming a new world record with a wave reaching , by some accounts, 120’.
WTH? Laird Hamilton had a some choice comments on CNN. One was that Carlos didn’t make the wave and therefore did not ride the biggest wave ever. Laird said, “Carlos had the biggest wipe-out ever, not the biggest ride”
Is Laird’s assessment, that a surfer must make the wave to claim the world record, a reasonable litmus test?
Carlos Burle has responded to Laird Hamilton’s controversial opinions on the Brazilian’s potential big wave record, saying the American is a “spoiled” rider.
Laird disses Maya’s effort
Maya Gabiera almost died out there; big wipe-out, went unconscious; very scary situation and I wish her a speedy recovery. Laird, on CNN, went on to say that Maya had no –place being out there, that dangerous realm isn’t for her, she’s unprepared. And… that Carlos should bear the responsibility for Maya almost dying. FYI – LAIRD CNN video mysteriously missing. Conspiracy theorists have Laird’s people pulling strings at YOUTube.
Is Maya out of bounds, surfing in waves of this magnitude?
SKINDOG BRINGS SANITY (WAAAT?):
NAZERE: LOOKS LIKE FUN, NO?
Nazare translation: No-zare
Big Wave Session; this wave barely breaks, it more or less topples over, at least relative to other big wave breaks such as Jaws, Mavericks, Waimea, Cortez Bank. Surfing Mag wrote a great op/ed about the wave science of estimating the wave height at Nazare and other spots. Basically stating that these aren’t 100-foot waves, there is no real bottom to these waves, no trough. Without a trough you cannot measure the wave.
Where was GMAC?
Pipeline Season Opener
JOB and JJF got some great waves, but everyone got great waves, a gorgeous and perfect day at Pipe.
Where was Ricardo Dos Santos? October Pipe; means the sand is gone already which bodes well for Pipe lovers. Surfline LIVE had a live broadcast feed of the footage and it was awesome! Hats off to SURFLINE.
Tom Carroll Comes Clean
Tom Carroll and brother Nick were on Australia 60-Minutes news magazine. Tom admits what many of us knew, that he has an addictive personality and it has manifest itself with crystal meth addiction. He has been clean for 6 years.
Why announce this now? Feel good story. Everyone loves Tom. They are trying to sell books. Regardless this is something every young kid should hear about. I’m glad for Tom, I’m glad for this story. We need feel good stories.
NAZERE: LOOKS LIKE FUN, NO?
CPR: HINT… IT DOESN’T STAND FOR “CARLOS PERFORMS RESCUE”
BEST SONG EVER: