Surf Talk Radio: Great White Sharks, Australian Seasons Revs Up, Laird Hamilton Interview - Boardroom Show
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Surf Talk Radio: Great White Sharks, Australian Seasons Revs Up, Laird Hamilton Interview

Surf Talk Radio: Great White Sharks, Australian Seasons Revs Up, Laird Hamilton Interview


Surf Talk Radio Show Notes

Top 5 Stories – Feb. 12, 2012 — RIP Whitney Houston

#1 Story – Great White Shark spotted at Blacks – a 12-footer, on Big Wednesday, February 8; only a few guys out; pumping 10′ Blacks and chunky, powerful, mean Blacks; a friend of a friend, on his 9′ 4″ gun, was way outside at the Canyon peak with just two other surfers ; big set came in, two other guys caught the waves and my buddy was left alone out there; that is when he saw a 12′ GWS, clear as day, only 10 yards away, in the top of a smaller wave. It glided directly at him, sort of surfing the wave; then the shark disappeared.

Some other guys that are fishermen up in Dana Point have said that a pod of Killer Whales has regularly been feeding on the seals up there. They see them often.
Insane surf last week with stellar conditions and a meaty swell.

I took a major beating on Wednesday.

By the way, I surfed by myself on Wednesday morning in some thick 8′ waves, no one around, at a spot that usually has 25 + guys on it. I think the rain and size of the swell had people confused trying to figure out where to go.

Mavericks had a few epic days this week; pristine conditions; all the big wave chargers Skin-dog, Healey, Twiggy, Longs, Pete Mel, ET AL. Skin-dog blogged about Healey getting pitted on the left from a backdoor angle. Some great photos from Doug Acton that I saw online. Wow. Dorian apparently got the best waves, one tube he pulls into… the guy is mental good.

So are we surfed out? My question to you is… Has this been a good winter? How would you rate, on a scale of 1-10 10 being epic.

We have short memories; the last month month and half has been good to very good, but Nov. & Dec. were horrible. I give it a 6 out of 10.

#2 Australian Open of Surfing presented by Hurley and Billabong – After the phenomenal success of the US Open Of Surfing over the last few years Hurley and Billabong have teamed up to bring a similar event down under. Set to be one of the biggest events on the Australian surfing calendar, featuring an ASP 6-Star Men’s World Tour event, an ASP 6-Star Women’s World Tour event and Men’s and Women’s ASP Australasia Pro Junior Series events. a world-class skate bowl featuring the world’s best skateboarders and two live music concerts on the Channel [V] music stage. It’s all happening from the 11th to 19th February, 2012 on Manly Beach, Sydney … and it’s all free… a WEBCAST of course.

A lot of pro surfing happening as the World Tour begins to to start its 21012 campaign.

Brazil, Burleigh, manly, then Quiksilver Snapper Rocks WT event with all eyes on Slater Gabe Medina, Kolohe and Jon Jon.

#3 Kelly Slater turned 40 years old yesterday.

#4 Laird Interview on ESPN:

On the tow-in scene at Jaws: “Right now it’s a circus for Red Bull and these other companies to try and get people to go out and do things for them that will get them press, and it kind of takes away from the essence of what it’s all about. ”

On the paddle-in resurgence at Jaws: “The paddling aspect, well, I think it’ll be interesting to see somebody actually make a wave at Jaws when it’s breaking properly. You know, that wave is more designed for towing. It’s a little bit of a waste to see these guys out there trying to paddle and then so many waves going by unridden. I guess maybe they’re trying to prove a point that you can do it. But is it the most functional way to really ride that wave, and are you getting all you can out of it? You’re not. So for me, I look at it kind of like a gimmick, in the sense of, “OK, yeah, can I crash on a giant one?” Part of it has to do with the sponsors. A lot of it’s stimulated by these bigger surf companies pushing their guys to be different. The problem with tow-in surfing is that you can tow people into waves who aren’t really great surfers. So at least with paddling, you have to be a good surfer. And that’s what I do like. But at the end of it, there’s good waves for paddling and there’s good waves for towing, and you might be paddling into a wave or two at Peahi, but you’re never going to match the power of that wave. ”

Internet forums are lighting up with responses to Laird – see below some comments:
1) “I’d like to see him stand in front of Shane Dorian, Danillo Couto, Greg Long or Mark Healey and tell them directly to their faces that they are paddling in at Jaws for the money.”

2) “In ‘Step Into Liquid’ didn’t Laird say man couldn’t paddle fast enough to catch these waves? Now it’s happening and Laird is 47 and he can’t hang, so he calls it a gimmick.”

3) “Guys are discounting the high performance aspect of the drop. Making a crazy airdrop on a 50 ft. wave is way more high performance than doing a mid-face carve you had 10 seconds to set up for. The wave is suited for gnarly drops as much as it is for swooping tow carves.”

4) “I think a bunch of Armchair Quarterback/internet tough guys calling out Laird is a joke. The guy was frigging dangling from a Helicopter attached to a tow board 100 feet from the water — this morning. Above 30-foot Outer Reef waves. The guy is incredible.”

#5 Santa Cruz Sentinel article by Gretchen Wegrich’s :
Full article : http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/sports/ci_19947784

Brodie Carr is Spicoli
Brodie Carr, former ASP President, ultimate Spicoli moment under his watch.

The article states that last year was chaotic and that professional surfing in its current form is being questioned by SOME of the professionals, SOME in the media, and SOME of the enthusiasts, and SOME of the daily partakers of the ocean and waves.

* she points towards this years drug testing implementation as transparent effort to push surfing further into the mainstream away from Spicoli image
* she points to NIKE as a great example of this push into the mainstream
* then surfing is embarrassed by the ASP’s miscalculation of points announcing Slater champ prematurely – a Spicoli moment of the highest degree
* she highlights dissenting voices Bobby Martinez and Skin-dog Collins

* she then points to former SURFING mag editors Travis Ferre and Photog Nathan Lawrence joining forces with Kai Neville to create a new magazine
* apparently “Bummer Magazine” is positioning itself to exist apart from corporate influence.
* surfing has always been more rebel than frat boy; is there room for both?

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SDSU Center for Surf Research – 10th annual surfing, arts, sciences & issues conference: Surfing’s New Aloha: The Growing Trend of Giving BackFebruary 10, 2012 7:00PM – 9:00PM & Saturday, February 11, 2012 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM San Diego State University’s Parma Payne Goodall Alumni Center csr.sdsu.edu
http://www.cvent.com/d/9cqk1r/4W.

1Comment

  • Tony / 12 February 2012 3:24

    LOVE the Bummer magazine concept!

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