Jack O’Neill: It’s Always Summer on the Inside
Down The Line surf talk radio w/ Scott Bass n Jeff Baldwin Jan. 22, 2012
Jack O’Neill: It’s Always Summer on the Inside
* Drew Kampion who authored a biography of wetsuit pioneer and surf industry icon Jack O’Neill. Jack O’Neill: It’s Always Summer on the Inside. We’ll talk with Drew.
• Plus the top 5 stories.
Adam Wright Solspot.com surf report
On the heels of Windansea’s Ted Smith heart attack and in the name of common sense San Diego Project Heartbeat
is offering a Free opportunity for surfers and their friends and family to learn basic CPR skills.
> >> Where: Bird’s Surf SHED, 1091 West Morena, San Diego, CA 92110.
> >> When: Friday, January 27th, from 6pm to 8pm.
> >> Why: Because the more people who know the basics of CPR, the more lives may be saved!
> >> How: Please RSVP to Bird via facebook (https://www.facebook.com/BirdsSurfShed) or by phone (619) 276-2473.
858 570 1360 surftalksandiegoATgmailDOTcom twitter @sacredcraftexpo or @jeffbaldy
Drew Kampion is a former editor of several surf magazines and author of many books, including Stoked! A History of Surf Culture. He lives on an island in Washington.
GOOD MORNING DREW: JACK O’Neill- the biography, give us a quick overview of the book?
Jack the patriarch of the O’Neill Wetsuit empire;
The question remains, who really invented the surfing wetsuit: some might argue the Meistrell brothers, some might say Jack O’Neill, some might say neither; what does Jack O’Neill say?
* He is dyslexic, a patron of a school for dyslexic kids (like him),
* He’s been working actively to save the white shark from extinction.
* Drew, I ask you? How do we know the GWS is going extinct?
* Team O’Neill catamaran for a cruise on Monterey Bay. O’Neill’s Sea Odyssey program,
* What innovation puts more people on waves, the wetsuit or the leash?
* What did you learn about Jack O’Neill from your involvement with the book?
* His home at Pleasure Point, have you sat on the couch and watched the waves with the iconic O’Neill?
* What about his political viewpoints, any insight?
How do we purchase this book??
Top 5 stories:
1) Volcom Pipe Pro – begins tomorrow with big swell expected at Pipeline. Defending event champion John John Florence will head the field, joined by top international talent Josh Kerr (Australia), Bruce Irons (Hawaii, wildcard), Kolohe Andino (California), Tanner & Dane Gudauskas (California), Wiggolly Dantas (Brazil), Joan Duru (France), Balaram Stack (New York), and Hawaii chargers Ian Walsh, Dusty Payne, and Jamie O’Brien.
Not only will the Volcom Pipe Pro crown a 2012 champion, but it will also be a qualifier for December’s Pipe Masters (final event of the year-ending Vans Triple Crown of Surfing and ASP World Tour). Eight wildcards will be up for grabs for local Hawaii surfers.
My question to you Baldy: If we agree that the DaHui Backdoor Shootout and the Volcom Pipe Pro together receive as much or more media exposure, attention and acknowledgment through massive internet exposure via webcasts, YouTube, the multitude of twitter accounts, surf blogs, surf magazine websites, and nonstop imagery posted on the internet, do the local Pipeline experts really still need the Pipe Masters slots? Hasn’t, in fact, the need to acknowledge these experts through the Pipeline Masters become archaic and is now taken care of through the new media paradigm and these other events (not to mention the onslaught of local ‘Pipe Expert’ imagery from every good swell at Pipe)?
2) ASP International has initiated a new Anti-Doping Policy for the world’s best surfers which will be activated for 2012 ASP World Title season. Applies to ASP Top 34 and ASP Top 17 members competing on the ASP World Title Series and ASP Women’s World Title Series respectively. ASP surfers played a crucial role in the initiation of this policy and are in full support of its activation.
2.3 Recreational Substances Prohibited at All Times
• Cocaine Hydrochloride;
• Methamphetamines; and
3) Legendary Film Maker Jack McCoy Wins Best Documentary
and Receives Life Time Achievement Award at the X-Dance Film Festival – A Deeper Shade of Blue is McCoy’s 25th film on surfing which took almost 5 years to bring to the big screen. Jack McCoy, a multi talented Director, Producer and Cinematographer focuses on Hawaiian Surf Culture’s deepest roots, the evolution of the surfboard, and the Polynesian Creed of Aloha in this new film A Deeper Shade Of Blue.
The X-Dance Life Time Achievement Award in the past has been won by iconic surf film maker Bruce Brown (Endless Summer) and skiing film guru Warren Miller. So McCoy is a perfect recipient to carry on this honored achievement at a film festival that continues to herald the work of action sports film makers.
4) Occy wants a keyhole cop at Snapper
He said finding a way to stop surfers swarming the keyhole, the main access point for the Snapper surf break, was a potential solution. “Sometimes you head to Snapper and you see 30 guys all trying to get out through the rocks at the same time,” he said. “Maybe if you had someone there saying ‘hang on a second’, keeping it to five guys at a time and then another five guys a few minutes later, that could help.”
Occhilupo said the marshall would have to be able to monitor the number of surfers and have security or lifeguard skills. “Some guys would just go off and not listen but I think most surfers would have the sense to abide by something like this,” he said. Police start early-morning patrols in attempt to curb incidents of surf rage The two popular breaks of Duranbah and Snapper Rocks have been identified as places where an increased amount of surf rage is occurring. Last week, mounted police also patrolled between Rainbow Bay and Kirra. Local surfer and Burleigh Boardriders Club member, Terry Teece, says the biggest cause of arguments in the surf is people ‘dropping in’ on each other and not respecting the old-time local surfers and the “pecking order of a various place”.
5) Another shark attack on a surfer:
A 26-year-old man has been bitten by a shark off the WA coast, becoming the second person to be attacked in Australian waters in two days. The new victim, reported by to be a 26-year-old tour operator, was bitten today while swimming near Coral Bay, an idyllic vacation spot 1137km north of Perth.
Witnesses told police said the shark was a 3m tiger shark, a large species considered dangerous to humans. A spokeswoman for The Royal Flying Doctor said the patient was expected to be flown to Perth for treatment for a non-life-threatening bite to his arm.
News of the attack came as it emerged that a shark which attacked a 44-year-old surfer at a popular beach on Australia’s east coast. The surfer nearly bled to death after he was savaged by a shark and forced to paddle himself back to shore, screaming for help, as blood streamed out behind him. Father-of-one Glen ‘Lennie’ Folkard, 44, was last night fighting for his life after suffering massive blood loss from the attack.
He was surfing at Redhead Beach, near Newcastle, 100 miles north of Sydney, when the shark – believed to be a young great white or an equally aggressive bull shark – attacked him.
But Mr Folkard, a well known tattoo artist, managed to grab hold of his surfboard and paddle towards the shore, crying out ‘I’m in trouble, I’m in trouble’. Blood surrounded him as other surfers came to his rescue and carried him onto the shore. He was rushed to John Hunter Hospital in Newcastle in a critical condition.
The attack has led to calls from Green campaigners to remove shark nets, which they claim are ineffective and pose a danger to other marine life.
One witness, who identified himself only as Peter, said the attack scene was like something out of the movie Jaws.